wuais 2017-12-8 15:47
山连着山的连山【224P】
[font=Arial, "][size=15px]说走就走的旅程[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271616485.html][img]http://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/04/A7/wKgBZ1onqT6AfNpJAAzOZaCfyeU11.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271924010.html][img]http://c4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/D0/92/wKgBZ1opCraAQlRJABKyjBO8O6I90.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271924011.html][img]http://c1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/D0/96/wKgBZ1opCriAfd_HABT4cwe8CDI26.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271924012.html][img]http://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/D0/9A/wKgBZ1opCrqAa9RuABISPIdvA_o94.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/270227265.html][img]http://b4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/C4/A6/wKgBZ1ohBDuAPlWSABvTOjfgVds01.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/270227313.html][img]http://c1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/C5/9B/wKgBZ1ohBRqAMLBrABoiwlTK0Vg64.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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从[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/13394.html]佛山[/url]去连山现在真的非常方便，沿着二广高速2个半小时直达。
周末天气非常好，起了个早，吃完早餐9点钟一车四人就出发了，想着12点前可以在连山吃中午饭，之后去皇后山，在山里住，吸吸新鲜空气，喝喝新鲜的茶，悠悠闲过个周末。
二广高速要穿过很多隧道，快到连山的时候要经过那条隧道长达三公里多，卫星导航信号几乎没有。穿出隧道口就看见连山出口的牌子了，但导航显示还有几公里才下高速，我一时蒙了，明明记得是连山出口下去的，一刹那车就驶过了出口，那时手机的导航信号才恢复，已经错过了，看见下一站是18公里的[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/144540.html]太保[/url]，嘴里碎碎念，人肉导航多年了怎么会犯这样低级的错误。
十来分钟后下了[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/144540.html]太保[/url]出口，再转进399县道，向着连山的方向走看见了[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]梯田的牌子，那时快中午了，既来之则安之，就进去[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]梯田看看呗，顺便吃个中午饭。
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271636498.html][img]http://c3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/10/DD/wKgBZ1onuImAJr4fABapNsInKBY09.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271636499.html][img]http://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/10/E1/wKgBZ1onuIyAeKg6ABNlN62sE4U47.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 村里的路很窄，看见停车场和农家菜馆就转了进去，谁知旅游淡季村里的农家[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/63532.html]乐都[/url]没开，只能问问当地人，他们指了指山上，说上面可能有饭吃，于是我们继续往山上开，看见梯田人家的牌子高兴坏了，停好车进去一看，城门大开，但空无一人。这时刚好有一春姑带着女儿经过，说饭店是她哥哥的，今天他去喝喜酒了，没人煮饭了。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271637153.html][img]http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/11/1A/wKgBZ1onuNOAKQM_ABGExlE-1Jk90.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 我们问她会炒菜吗？她说只会杀鸡，我们大喜，于是两个男人与村姑一同去捉鸡，我们两个女人就开始刷锅、洗米、煲粥。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271637152.html][img]http://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/11/17/wKgBZ1onuNCAHq2pABVlcIx1H5056.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 所有食材就地取材，一鸡两味，心满意足地吃了一顿农家菜，还买了一大堆土特产，大米、小黄姜、芋头、南瓜把车尾都塞满了。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271878637.html][img]http://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/9F/DB/wKgBZ1oo7KeAc6VtABdv-Jqc3TQ84.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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填饱肚子已经2点多，看见后山的雾开始散了。原来这个连山[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/144540.html]太保[/url]镇正位于大雾山山脚，大雾山是连山县的最高山峰（1659.3米），称为“[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/14674.html]广东[/url]岭南屋脊”，山顶常年云雾缭绕。大雾山脚下有两个村，分别是欧家村和[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]村，而每个村又有大片梯田，统称雾山梯田, 是连山新八景之一，是[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/14674.html]广东[/url]省规模最大的原生态梯田。我们是误打误撞进了[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]梯田景区。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px]连山县太保镇黑山梯田[/size][/font]
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填饱肚子已经2点多，看见后山的雾开始散了。原来这个连山[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/144540.html]太保[/url]镇正位于大雾山山脚，大雾山是连山县的最高山峰（1659.3米），称为“[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/14674.html]广东[/url]岭南屋脊”，山顶常年云雾缭绕。大雾山脚下有两个村，分别是欧家村和[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]村，而每个村又有大片梯田，统称雾山梯田, 是连山新八景之一，是[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/14674.html]广东[/url]省规模最大的原生态梯田。我们是误打误撞进了[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]梯田景区。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271637154.html][img]http://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/11/1C/wKgBZ1onuNWAWc5_AA_fY4rQ6Bk22.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 村姑告诉我们，国庆假期这里人车都挺多的，现在割禾了，也没什么游客了。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/270227257.html][img]http://n2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/C4/82/wKgBZ1ohBBmAZTN1ABiS2G9HGTE02.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/270227259.html][img]http://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/C4/8B/wKgBZ1ohBCGAG8hJABhB7foLKxg08.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 我们开车继续上行一公里就没路可走了，把车停好就沿着弯弯曲曲的小路走上去。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/270227260.html][img]http://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/C4/90/wKgBZ1ohBCWAdVE6ABaQmdt2Frg40.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 山上的水不断往下流，梯田开始养水了。田里剩下的禾头和碎谷成了鸡鸭的天然食料。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/270227263.html][img]http://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/C4/9E/wKgBZ1ohBDKAMy4sABhlHFG0iLA82.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] [url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]梯田四周都被山峰包围着，线条优美，鸡在田埂上闲庭信步，阳光温暖地洒下来，蓝天白云落在田里，与金色的稻杆形成一幅画。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 山峰和树木分散了光的直射，把芦苇照得通透。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 山上的梯田里还种满了各色的鲜花，想必是旅游旺季时留下的，现在虽然是残败凌乱，但色彩非常鲜艳，拍出来有了油画的质感。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 在山上转了一大圈已经是下午的四点钟，这时色温非常柔和，坐在田头上晒着和煦的冬日，暖意洋洋。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 山上的小路都是一个环形，不用走回头路。四点半太阳就开始下山，远处的村庄和梯田很快就淹没在影子里。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 村里一直在烧稻杆，山谷里空气清新，很容易就闻到这股浓浓的烧味。村民也开始无序地建房子，想必不久的将来，这里又是一个热闹的景区。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 没了阳光的照射，一切归于平淡。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 我们在这间小茅屋里又买了柑桔、烧米饼和米，老板娘说，过几个月这里的田灌满水了又会是另一番景象。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 看见小孩子在田里玩耍，想起我们小时候也曾经这样撒野过。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 离开[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]梯田继续往禾洞镇的皇后山进发，经过一个大坡就可以从另外一个角度去看[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/57192.html]黑山[/url]梯田，层层叠叠，美不胜收。如果我们早一点离开，阳光可以把梯田点亮。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/270230279.html][img]http://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/C7/82/wKgBZ1ohBwGAE-3-ACBNb5r4-ws37.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山黑山梯田[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px]连山县禾洞镇皇后山[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 沿着399县道继续往连山禾洞镇的方向开，导航终点设[url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/travel-scenic-spot/mafengwo/10548.html]清远[/url]连山瑶家寨酒店，大概半个小时就到达皇后山。其实这是一个茶场，听说门票是60元的，我们预定了酒店就全都免了。开车进去大概需要15分钟，路很窄而且都是S弯。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 入住后天已经开始黑了。酒店有餐厅和品茶室，餐厅做的菜还可以，价格不算太高，还可以烤羊。晚上8点还有瑶家文化表演可以一起参与。[/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271898257.html][img]http://c3-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/B0/09/wKgBZ1oo-OGAB0wEAA7-jZ4Bffg92.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山皇后山[/url][/size][/size][/font]
[font=Arial, "][size=15px][url=http://www.mafengwo.cn/photo/143404/scenery_8040003/271898258.html][img]http://c1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/B0/0F/wKgBZ1oo-OOAI3D1AAt_a1maevE68.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90[/img][/url][size=12px][url=]连山皇后山[/url][/size][/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 饭后沿着这条登山梯往上爬，想看看能不能拍下星空。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 到9点多钟雾就起来了，名副其实的雾山。来这里住就是为了静心修养，一切皆空，早早洗洗睡吧。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 早上起来发现外面雾蒙蒙一片，看云海的美梦破灭了，只能出去吸吸新鲜空气，看看茶花滴下的露珠，听听鸟儿的欢唱。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 沿着步道一直往上爬，雾太浓，一切皆在虚无中。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 转一大圈大概需要40分钟，就当是晨运吧。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 再回到起点已经是9点钟，吃完早餐10点钟了雾还没散，继续睡去。一觉醒来11点了，推开窗发现外面已经清晰，于是又重复走了一圈，景色截然不同。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 素有“岭南美后第一峰”之称的皇后山，海拔1405米，现在是结合当地独特的壮瑶民族风情，打造出集生态农业开发、有机茶种植和休闲农业观光旅游为一体的生态旅游度假区。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 大概是800亩的茶山，高山梯田状，空气负离子充足，确实是一个休闲的好地方。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 同一个景色，雾里和阳光下截然不同。[/size][/font]
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[font=Arial, "][size=15px] 从皇后山出来向连山方向走是要经过金子山的，门口挤满了旅游大巴，人流熙熙攘攘，我记得我们前两年进去的时候还是比较清静的，很幸运这次我们选择了藏在山谷中的僻静之地，能够洗洗那颗躁动的心。[/size][/font]
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